12/09/12 142.0
Good hike on Sunday. A cold front blew in Saturday evening which meant more clothes, but that water would be less of an issue, since this particular hike is pretty darn dry. T's friend Brian wanted to join us and thought he was 'ready' for the mileage. We really hoped he was right as there is no shortcut out on this route. Our day packs were heavy as we each carried about a gallon of water. I had 2700 calories worth of food and a heavier jacket than usual, plus a warmer hat than I normally take. Good thing, i needed all of it! We set off in morning twilight - great view of the planets that happened to be aligned just now (doom and destruction by some forecasts!) with the smidge of crescent moon.
The Grandview trail was as steep and exposed as it was at Thanksgiving when we were last on it, only this time it was dark and I had a pretty gimpy headlamp on... the dark didn't last more than 30 minutes and then we were cruising down to Horseshoe Mesa. Turned onto the Cottonwood trail - eek - steep, loose, rocky beast of a trail. I just hate that stuff! Luckily, it was only about a mile and then we were on the Tonto and it was all new terrain. I was out front, cruising along, really enjoying the chilly morning and how each turn brought a new view. Rolling hills, little ups, little downs, no major elevation changes. We had some canyons to pass as landmarks - huge and complicated Grapevine, small fairly steep Boulder, and wide open Lone Tree. In between each, we would traverse out to the edge of the Grand Canyon for a quick glimpse of the river far, far below. There are a couple of spooky sections, but really beautiful. At long last we made it to Cremation canyon, notable because this one has steep, loose descents into the 3 arms followed by steep loose climbs out. After a long day of steady cruising, the 3 descents were brutal!
Made it to the Tip Off on South Kaibab at about 8 hours, a little behind schedule, but not terrible. Just 4.4 miles and 3260 ft to go... I'm psyched because finally there is a big hill to climb! If it were just T and I, we could make it out in 1.5 hrs and still be under the 10 hours we planned. Unfortunately, Brian was about spent. T and I each took what we could of his heaviest stuff (his pack was ridiculous but we didn't find that out until about 20 miles in) and we set off up the hill. We went slower than we would have gone, but the pace was OK. At first, B was hanging with us, but after a couple of miles he was dropping farther and farther back. We made sure he was eating and not just drinking as that won't work, but he just got slower and slower. At Cedar Ridge, we waited 20-30 minutes for him and at that point, decided we needed a new plan.
When B got there he was in despair, feeling bad physically, and more importantly, feeling terrible mentally about how slow he was, how he was letting us down, and so on. We gave him an electrolyte and since his tummy was not good, I gave him an Expresso Love Gu - the magic elixir. He took that really well. Tom was already shivering in the cold and wind with all of his clothes on, so we agreed he should go up the trail and out to the car to bring it closer, saving Brian an extra mile. I would stay with Brian, walking him out. It was nearly dark and getting really cold, the wind was fierce at time. I told B we could go slow, but that we had to keep moving. I explain about how relentless I am and why I am going to be that way with him. B doesn't say much to that. Leaving Cedar Ridge, there are steep switchbacks and he really wanted to stop, but I wouldn't let him. We almost made it through that section but I had to stop and pee, so told him to go on ahead. As I was catching up, I was about to say how great he was doing when he collapsed in the dusty trail. Ugh! Poor Brian is down in the dust (it's about an inch thick and pretty nasty because of the mules) curling into the fetal position saying "I'm sorry, I'm sorry". Poor guy, the best thing I can do for him is be calm and get him moving so we get out of the Canyon. After some soothing words and a calming touch, I get him to sit up and eat another gel by telling him how yummy the Chocolate Outrage Gu is. I'm freezing in the wind and I have to get him moving. Eventually, it works, and we are up and walking again.
Finally, we are done with these switchbacks and now have a moderate stretch ahead of us before the last set of switchbacks to exit the Canyon. I see a light up there so I'm pretty sure T is back and waiting for us. Once we start the switchbacks, I notice a light behind us, so can tell B we ahead of someone else which helps a little bit. I also tell him that after 2 switchbacks, we can stop again so he can have another Gu. He loves the Expresso Loves so I tempt him with one of those. It works, we get through the switchbacks more quickly than I hoped and he sucks down the gu. He is actually feeling a bit better and realizes that I am freezing every time we stop, so gets up to move without much prompting from me. A few more switchbacks and we see lights. I call ahead to Tom. At long last, we are at the top, safe! Tom hands me my down parka which I gratefully slip on and we get B bundled into the warm truck. He is OK, we are all OK.
In the end, it was 12 hours, not 10, for the 28.7 miles. 4275 calories, avg HR 115 - long slow steady. T made it up from Cedar Ridge in about 20 minutes so we know we could easily do the hike in 10 hours, even with the extra mile out to the car, but I am not in a hurry to do this trail again. I much prefer steep up and down to long and rolling. I was feeling fairly beat up Monday morning and so called off work as sitting at a desk all day would have killed me.
